Land of Wool and Lava

English is spoken well here - even half the graffiti is in English. And every hostess, desk clerk and citizen knows to use our native tongue when engaging these Americans in conversation. How, I wonder, do we not appear to be natives of this land? It is Winter, so we are bundled in coats, gloves, hats and such - this is the way everyone is dressed. And most carry a small backpack just like I do. Perhaps, these days, there are more tourists in Reykjavik than locals and so, it's simply the safest verbal opening to offer...

The foreigner count is so high, we believe, due to the extensive deals offered from Iceland Air via the Groupon-like online emailer, TravelZoo. In our wanderings, those whom we met had purchased a similar $700/pp deal to spend 3 nights in Iceland, airfaire & hotel included, with several excursion packages too. Twas only an extended weekend and our travel time alone was more than twice the 7-hour flight from Denver. So, 30 hours of airplanes, TSA gauntlets and traffic in exchange for 80 hours of vacation! But it certainly is worth the effort.

It is always a gentle surprise to select an airline that respects their customers and does not treat the non-business traveler with disdain as do the big US domestic carriers. Still no free meals, but a pleasant welcome and a iceberg-shaped bottle of genuine glacier water imported for us from our destination. The drink-of-the-day on this polar route was the hand-crafted Champagne Shower Sour Power, a mix of sweet Vermouth, Vodka, apple vinegar and... pop-rocks! For $12, our flight attendant blended ingredients and shook vigorously for a full minute; all worth the show and taste. Yup, long days with short nights leads to crazy inventiveness!

If you touch down before sunrise on a Saturday, be prepared to roam the streets with fellow arrivals until the kaffitar (coffee shops) open. At that time, quickly grab a seat and order a $5 better-than-Starbucks warm beverage in a cup and a chocolate croissant side. Ah, just the first $20 for food of much more yet to be spent...

Since our hotel, the Center Skjaldbreid in old downtown, would not have a room for us until the afternoon, we began our shopping! We found a Christmas shop and passed on the $80 stuffed white moose in favor of a simple ornament, to become another annual memory of travels long past. Every fourth storefront sells wool goods including the traditional lopapeysa (sweater), which is mandatory attire for all tour guides.

Next stop is the tallest landmark in the city, Hallgrímskirkja, a 244' towering space-shuttle shaped church built in concrete to resemble the hexagonal basaltic lava columns. In classic Gothic style, yet with minimal decoration, the lines and open spaces dominate. For 700 krona each ($6.20), we lift up to the observation deck with wide views across the town sloping down to the waterfront; now, we've seen it all...

With even more time still available, we choose to hit a local hot pot. This term refers to the geothermal spas and pools, which are prevalent across the land, even in the smallest hamlets. We are directed to the oldest one in the city, where only the locals are found; indeed, we are the lone tourists and enjoy a soak in some large hot tubs on the rooftop. Ahhhhh....

Next, a stop at Prikið, one of the oldest eateries in town for lunch: a hamburger for her and fried codfish for him with my first beer, a Viking. Just 25 years ago (in 1989), Iceland ended the final part of their alcohol prohibition to permit the sale of beer; that day is March 1st, so I celebrated the local culture as best I could...

We were certainly blessed to see majestic Northern Lights, the bucket-list objective that launched this voyage overseas. On our first evening, we set sail into the harbor to pull away from the city lights with 100+ passengers; within minutes, we were told to go up on deck (in the chilly air and strong winds) to see the lights! On this initial opportunity, as all were huddled together, we were filled with a combination of gladness to see them tempered with disappointment at how boring they actually were...

"Is that faint grey cloud really the phenom that has brought us here?" "Yes, that's it alright" we are told. In the next 15 minutes, however, that cloud exploded into emerald curtains pulsating with waves across the entire horizon. They move rather quickly changing brightness and drawing shapes ranging from dragons to flowers. Photographs saturate the color and show it much brighter, but the live action is wonderful and awe inspiring. And, then we saw them again the next night (at 1am) from the beach!

Upon our return to terra firma, it is time for a grand arctic tradition - a pylsa (with sweet relish remoulaude) from the internationally famous Bæjarins Bestu (awarded Best in Europe, 2006). We stand in line for a few minutes to get a pair of extremely tasty $3 hotdogs; yummmm!

This is truly a party-town with constant activity through the weekend nights; our hotel provides perfect access to hear it all, like that or not. The next day, we are greeted with the sounds from a local marching brass band playing New Orleans tunes in honor of upcoming Mardis Gras. Then, they added some Bear Necessities from Disney...

On our final evening, we enjoyed a pleasant Italian dinner at Caruso's, a well-received establishment with fine dishes; it is expensive at ~$60/pp but since a simple hamburger can run $25, one must keep perspective on the value received.  

The chamber of commerce has created the Golden Circle, which defines a countryside excursion route taking 6 hours to see the wonders of this volcanic landscape: we crossed the tectonic rift between the North American and European plates, viewed a mountain glacier, watched the original Geysir from which the common name is derived, saw grazing Icelandic horses, and braved two frozen waterfall vistas.

The final excursion was to the Blue Lagoon, a converted effluent pit from the electric utility that is more dull green than blue. The waters range from warm to hot (!) and crowds swarm to bathe and absorb the sulfurous liquid. Ah, mother nature at her utmost; it was rather soothing ;-)

The home turf of Leifur Ericson holds wonders, tastes, and vistas that amaze and inspire; a perfect place for a long weekend away...

See more photos here.

Fording America in a Chrysler

In early June of 2011, we set off on a round-trip drive from Texas to New York so that we (that is, Cheryl) would have her own car for her 6-week long summer vacation (while I promptly returned by plane to the coal mines of Dallas). The drive up north was a quick dash in two days to cover the 1500 miles in about 24 hours of "road time" (quick stops included).

I planned this trip just as our grand-parents did road trips - just start driving! I made no reservations in advance... no checking carefully for internet ratings, best prices, and such... "we'll just go til we get tired and find a road-side h/motel for the evening" thought I. Well, my thoughts were in need of some rehabilitation - we drove around for some time (in the rain) looking for an available room in the Louisville area - only after several stops did we find a vacancy. Fortunately, a decent one - I am a "luckier-than-average bear"...

As a reward for the accelerated no-frills first half (and to make up just a tad for my having not properly planned our single night's need for restful accommodation), I made our return in July a lil more interesting...

Cedar Point

Our nephew, Thor, is working his first post-college summer as a seat-checker (aka fat-tourist-stuffer) on the Raptor roller-coaster at the Great Amusement Park in Sandusky, Ohio. He is working for below-minimum-wage in order to learn about hard work, commitment, and to further the fun-level of America's Touring Tourists. As a minor side benefit, his girlfriend, Paige, just happens to work 500 feet away at the Disaster Transport attraction ;-)

In a day-and-a-half, we experienced plenty of thrills in the summer heat near Lake Erie - we rode in the front row of every ride, including the 310' Golden Ticket "number 1 rated" steel coaster for 2010, Millennium Force! There are many coasters here and a rather good Wooden one - the Mean Streak - which is highly rated, very smooth (at least down the first drop) and quite long.

Some great rides, good air time, plenty of G's and a successful smart-phone launch at 90+ MPH from Cheryl's purse! Both Thor and Paige (in row #2) had the optimal viewing angle to see the 3-day-old Android escape heavenward in sloooow mooootion into a lovely Blue Sky on a unplanned voyage to a seemingly doomed meeting with Planet Earth... After a (clandestine?) search, it was recovered and is operational having only lost the back panel - now that story should beat the abuse dished out by Swayze and Mongo in the old Timex adverts hands-down!

BTW, when booking a hotel room, read the online reviews and check carefully but remember that sometimes it just isn't possible to know in advance that your River View room looks out over a brown stream towards a large grain mill and a cement factory! Still, we stumbled upon Wing Night next door and indulged a 'plenty!

@Thor & Paige: Thanks for a fun adventure!

From Saints to Sinners

The following day began with a 280-mile dash across Ohio to reach the beauty of Kentucky! And not only the lovely hills there, but to reach sanctuary at St. Mary's Basilica just over the border from Cincinnati. It can make you wanna be Catholic for this is like being in Europe in the cathedrals from centuries past - this church was built by local Irish and German families over two decades and has the World's Largest church stained glass window (67' x 24') which is worth seeing for itself alone; however, there are many more fantastic windows (see pic at left), carvings, and murals - plus, the huge organ and the Gothic architecture of the building itself. A blessed beginning to our day...

...was derailed in no time by a stop at the Jim Beam distillery. Yup, its easy to tour every one of the Bourbon manufacturers in the state and learn the ways of moonshinin' and sip as much white lightning as you like. We did only the one factory since JB is the largest of them all. Our tour guide was a young Kentucky belle who is a family descendent of the dynasty. She showed us a miniature working still (see pic) and taught us how to make a proper corn-mash, double distill, burn our barrels, and wait 9 years for the results - makes cheese-making seem like its done in a microwave! That is a long time to hope no one breaks into the warehouse with an awl and a straw... and (to my unrefined palate) the final hooch is harsh (129-proof)!

I learned that the secret to finding an authentic Mountain Dew Still in the woods is to look for black bark on the trees - really - the distillation releases (happy) gas that encourages (very noticeable) mold growth on nearby forests - this is how those darn revenuers caught pappy back in the day! So, after a few sips of the devil's drink....

...we spent a night in jail! After arriving in the state's second oldest city of Bardstown, we passed the luxurious Wickland estate where three Governors have lived so that we could sleep in the haunted county prison, the Jailer's Inn. Yup, it has now been converted to a B&B, but the building still has 30" of limestone for the exterior walls, large timbers for the ceilings, remnants of shackles on the floors and walls, and several un-restored cells for viewing. This was a harsh lock-up where justice was swift - and slightly capricious at the whim of the presiding sheriff or traveling judge.

The innkeeper, Dixie, is an ex-Texan grandmother who is escaping the drudgery of daily childcare for her offspring's children by living in a spooky prison cell in a jail only closed down in 1987 after a century (and a half) of housing plenty of ne'er-do-wells like Jesse James - apparently (says she), his cousin was married to the local sheriff so he and his gang stayed there at the jail as a true guest where the state law would not think to look for him! Must admit tho, that is a good hideout and a fine story...

"Don't look inside the cellar!" says Dixie as she nods her head up and down to encourage our misdeed - I still wonder what was down there? Neither of us, for the record, were bound over for trial (I have a good attorney).

Oh, and when YOU drive through there, remember to stop by at Hadorn's Bakery and get a YumYum (or two) - it's worth the drive!

The War Years

Kentucky could have kept Lincoln if only they didn't have so many land-deed disputes that drove his family away to Illinois. Our Great President was born in a small log cabin on our nation's frontier while his father was unable to return home due to a winter storm. He was not so poor as one might think, as his father made out well in due time (according to the tax rolls), but his home was far from luxury even for that day.

A Federal Memorial marks the exact spot of his birth (coincidentally, on President's Day), verified by archeological evidence. It is a neo-classical design (by John Russell Pope who also did the Jefferson Memorial) with an ornate and symbolic presence at the top of a small hill in the deep green woodland. In contrast, the small cabin is placed inside and alone to accentuate the rags-to-riches story of this man who, many say, was the one to truly create the American Dream in a land where it was not yet present in fact.
So, from his childhood years at the dawn of the 1800's, we head south into the war zone near his final years in the 1860's. As a Californian, I learned too little about the War of Northern Aggression, but as a Texan-in-Training, I try to catch up. Shiloh ("Place of Peace") was a small Methodist church, housed in a modest log cabin in the Tennessee hills, but here in April of '62, Yankees and Rebels clashed in our nation's bloodiest fighting (up to that day) in a key battle for two days, then moving south to Corinth (MS) where the southern forces were defeated. Future US Presidents, Grant and Garfield, fought here as well. This was just the beginning of our tragic war for greater carnage would follow - and at this hour, our nation learned just how much suffering was ahead.

For the true student of The War, markers are placed in hundreds of locations at which one can stand where cannon were placed, attacks mounted, retreats taken, and a general fell dead (from a stray shot they say). Skittering among the remnants and remembrance are forest animals being cute - really - we watched baby raccoons dig for food and several baby deer jumping in the woods....

Redemption

After drinking and driving, prison and war, one seeks relief... so why not at America's Greatest Mansion on the Mississippi, Graceland? There are plenty of memorabillia for sale and customers there to buy it all - mostly with Australia/NewZealand/British accents indicating to me that we have successfully exported our highest values of democracy to the world at large.

Speaking of value - the Heartbreak Hotel is a Memphis bargain right next to Elvis World USA and HE is on EVERY channel on EVERY TV in the place! In the lobby is a hotline phone - pick it up to get a PINK LIMO ride over to Marlowe's (as featured on Food Network) for BBQ - we did just that with no regrets...

From Tupelo to Tennessee, the story of Elvis is another "anyone can grow up to be..." epic that we honor so often. Frankly, the tour is properly kitchy, but it is still quite interesting to see how a young man turned suddenly (and significantly) famous has to balance personal & private life and how his abundance of money was spent.

He did indulge himself quite a bit... with cars, airplanes, bikes, technology (like big color televisions and a microwave) - essentially classic man-toys of that era. However, he also gave money away to many worthy causes... and friends & family of course. His home was a man-cave with carpeted ceilings, expensive furnishings, plenty of "look at me" styles. Not that it wouldn't have been fun to be a 3-day house guest during the 60's!

He passed away at 42, a short life of marriage & divorce, birth (of Lisa Marie) & death (of his mother), poverty & wealth, fame & isolation, talent & ignorance, good choices & bad...

And, now I finally know - for certain - that MY swimming pool is BIGGER than his...

PS. No surprise that I have even more photos and blather online!

The Friend I know as Howard Wiles

I wanted to write this while I have the time, the will, and the freshness of memory. Although nothing on earth can revive the heartbeat of our lost loves, it remains true that laughter, kind words, a touch, and shared moments will keep him at our side. Far from an empty wish, it is our solace to never forget, a gift from God. And so, here is the man to whom we've offered our final farewells...

Howard was a technology buff with a special knack for understanding computer networks in large industry as well as at home. His extensive knowledge of protocols and large corporate systems was exemplary. He worked hard at his career, but there is so much more...

His family remained the chief focus of every day for Howard; he shared both concerns and boasts alike for his sons. Their lives became his story, so much so that his home was the gathering place for many teenagers, a place where they could talk, laugh, and learn. His wisdom made a strong impact on many young men who know Howard as a mentor who reached out to push them in the right direction.

He was more than just a Dallas Cowboys fan; he KNEW football. He lived the game from his youth onward and played for Arizona State achieving victory at the Fiesta Bowl in 1983. This same university gave us Jim Jeffcoat, Defensive End, who graduated the previous year to join the Dallas team. Also, famed NFL star quarterback, Danny White, was a Sun Devil back in the 70's. Although sidelined with a career-ending knee injury, he coached from the bench (or couch) and actively cheered for his sons in their sporting days!

He loved God and shared his faith with all who knew him, including as a Sunday School teacher for many years. He presented the Gospel with an uplifting attitude that came from an abiding faith within. Jesus' instruction struck him personally so that his discipleship was more than words; he met the needs of others in action as when his family assisted with emergency relief efforts. Although he certainly held a great presence physically, his spiritual stature among his peers was larger still. A respected man who sought the Lord's will in his own life.

He was a good son, daily caring for his mother despite her failing health and he was sure to include her on family vacations to Disney World. He loved being at the Magic Kingdom in Florida with family and friends to enjoy such special times together. It is fitting that a land of dreams was where he found comfort; unable to experience the roller-coaster aspect, he found satisfaction in the smiles and the laughter... and the food ;-)

His wife, Jeri, lived at the center of Howard's life; he knew just how blessed a man is who has a godly wife. He cared for her deeply and strove to offer more than support; to provide a home to grow a happy family; to be nurturing in spirit; to instill values and character in their sons; to know her heart; to share their days; and above all, to love her more than himself.

Notwithstanding his ill health, chronic pain, and a medley of medications, he kept cheerful so that he greeted friends with a smile. Whether enjoying dinner, a backyard swim, sharing stories, or playing with grandchildren, Howard stood out as an encourager! Children were strongly drawn to him - my grand-daughter called him "Tower'd" which reminds me that he stood tall despite his damaged legs. Some thought he was Santa Claus; his resemblance in girth, gray and whiskers is easily noted, but what makes the comparison ring true is his giving, joyful spirit, and love for others!

He was a good friend to me in every way
He would hold nothing back from me if I had a need
He would give what he had and ask others to help
He would tell me the truth when a lie would be easier
He was as much my grand-daughters' Papa as I am
He was a father for his sons' friends
He is a man with a legacy alive today in us
He brightened my day
He was a man of heart

Top o' the Charts!

How about them Rangers? Our MLB baseball team has now set a club record with the best season start in this millennium! Unbelievable, but TRUE... And all this in just TWO games! Gotta hand it to these boys...

Bon Voyage

The excitement is palpable (whatever that means) as the departure nears for the women in our lives to set out on a road n' sea trip...


Has the world yet heard the exciting news
'Bout the ladies’ imminent ocean cruise?
There will be no men -
Only estrogen!
Might the ship flounder with all those shoes?

Y'all cheer, “Let’s go! Be rid of the guys!”
As you sail on toward azure blue skies
Old Salts have a ball
At each port of call
With plastic in hand for cheap Mexican buys

Vodka tonics, Margaritas and rum
Will assure there’s no end to the fun
Stewards kept busy
Keepin’ gals dizzy
‘Tween ports while at sea, you’ll always be numb

Diets forgotten at endless buffet -
Soaking up sun before evening Soiree!
Ogling teen pool boys...
Viewin’ men as toys...
Raising a toast to the “American Way”!

Hurricanes, Grasshoppers, Mojitos -
Ease burdens and lighten those sorrows
But don't shed that dress
If you drink to excess
Just what surprise might you likely expose?

Then, off to the beach for a surfside splash
Draining ev’ry purse of any last cash
Your wild cougar pack
Just need not look back
Despite scalding burns from each Hot Flash

Then back upon land you'll return
Drained by liquor, the sea and sunburn
Captured memories...
Dozens of stories...
And perhaps next year, it’s the guys’ turn!

Tick Della Roo

Me: "My face hurts!"
Wife: "It's killin' me!"

Haha - that's Wicks family humor for ya! I had to record a voice message for my new boss on Tuesday to let him know that I would be late as I had to see my dentist about a tooth ache. Couldn't say that my face hurt...

Despite his enthusiasm, X-Rays, and several tests, my dentist couldn't solve it, so my merciful wife "encouraged" me to visit a Care Now doc last night who had the fun of diagnosing me as a victim of Tic Douloureux, so at least my latest disorder has a sexy French appelation...

The bad news, however, began quickly with my Google searches:

** "Tic douloureux is generally a disease of middle age or later life" - okay, so I'm there and the parts are wearing out.

** "...is possibly the most painful condition known to medical science" - ooh, not so good to learn that, except I can brag about it at cocktail parties!

** "...the cause of this disorder is unknown in most cases" - darn, but I'm sure it can't last long!

** "...patients may have daily face pain attacks for weeks to months" - well, medical science must have a cure!

** "...after a remission (if any), it reoccurs as severe as ever, while other individuals have the pain continually" - ouch!

** "...for most patients, the episodes become more frequent and more resistant to treatment with medications over time" - darn Internet can provide too much information!

** "...there are severe surgical procedures that might be effective" - which means brain surgery as in skull bone cutting, etc...

** "...there are no long-term medical consequences of the disorder as it is purely a pain syndrome" - pain without consequences! Yippee...

** "'...victims 'are begging to be killed,' said Kim Burchiel, M.D., professor and chairman of neurological surgery at the Oregon Health & Science University School of Medicine, 'I'm telling you, it's total agony'" - maybe an expert, but I'm not sure I want to see Dr. Kim about my prospects...

Okay, enough already with the Internet advice!

If YOU don't have TN (aka Trigeminal Neuralgia), then congratulations! Enjoy not being in the worst pain ever... with no prospect for an effective cure. Still, you should worry as "it is estimated that 1 in 15,000 people suffer from it...", but don't pull those teeth quite yet!

My arrival in my late 40's and recent bouts with illness (e.g. a recent, painful, yet benign and huge blood clot in my leg) is an opportunity to be reminded of mortality and to accept being reliant upon others for some of the simplest things in life.

Can I find a blessing in this tribulation? I know it is possible and have done so before and observed the witness of those who praise God despite their most daunting troubles.

Physically, there appears to be a fault in the design of this facial nerve, but parts naturally wear out and it is a more basic tenet of science that dictates the failure of systems. However, if illness, trauma, and all things unwelcome were eliminated, would the world provide a foundation in which humanity would thrive?

Beyond Mother Nature's call for the Circle of Life to govern her domain and prevent any long-term domination by either individual or species, I am certain that the challenging Problem of Evil lies at the core of our happiness itself.

I may be very upset at an illness which strikes randomly without any apparent cause, but it is a reminder of a justice that is truly blind. Can I appreciate happiness without having known the dissatisfaction of an unmet need? I must say that when my TN pain subsides from any of my dozen "attacks" each day, the respite is so welcome that I experience great comfort and appreciation for my relief. Perhaps, even made deeper in that it is a temporal restoration, bound not to endure and not under my control.

Without illness, there is no need. Without need, there is no assistance. Without assistance, there is no giving. Without giving, there is no sacrifice. Without sacrifice, there is no love.

My infirmity is required so that you can offer love. For me to learn to love, I must recognize your need and decide to sacrifice what I have to give and assist.

Hopefully, my Tic will subside. If not tomorrow, then soon. But, the reminder of how many needs in this world remain unmet should remain on my mind forever. After all, it would be shameful for my pain to be wasted...

Do You Scream for this Ice Cream?

Is this our President flashing the victory sign in front of the US Capital building? Maybe it is, but I'm not quite sure who's flag that is - did Obama create a new one to match his Presidential Seal? The Russian advertising agency, Voskhod, is promising a new flavor of the week for Duet Ice Cream: "Black in White"! They claim that "Everyone is talking about it", so perhaps we should encourage adialog like the Germans have done with their line of snacks called "Obama Fingers" - frozen chicken fingers with curry dip! He is the "World's Leader" and was the overwhelming favorite for the non-US citizenry. Is this why he was their chosen one for the White House? Is our President a windfall of profit via marketing? Well, "It was supposed to be a homage to the American lifestyle and the new US president," Judith Witting, sales manager for the company, told the paper...

Finally, they really love him in the city of Obama in Japan, where marketers are capitalizing on his universal message of change in a television spot for E-Mobile. A primate dressed in a presidential monkey suit sells cell phones in this senselessly insane TV commercial.